La Stoppa 'Camporomano' 2011
Producer: La Stoppa
Notes: 100% Barbera. From 25-45-year-old estate vines on a slope on stony clay-limestone soils. The fruit is organically farmed and harvested by hand. It is destemmed and fermented with native yeasts and no sulfur in tank; maceration with the skins is for 30 days. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation because the naturally low pH and high acidity level combine to prevent it naturally. The Barbera is the only La Stoppa wine to age in barrique, for one year in used barrels. It is bottled without filtration and aged in bottle for a minimum of 2 years before release. Starting with the 2011 vintage, the wine bears the name of a La Stoppa Barbera vineyard site rather than the more generic "Barbera della Stoppa).
La Stoppa is an historic estate in the province of Piacenza in the Emilia region of Italy. There are 32 hectares of vines, along with almost as much forest, plus the ruins of a medieval tower. The property was founded and planted first in the late 19th century by a lawyer named Giancarlo Ageno, whose main interest was Bordeaux varieties. In 1973, current owner Elena Pantaleoni's printer father, with no winegrowing experience, purchased the property; Elena joined him to work at the winery full-time in 1991. By 1996, a decision was made to let the non-native varietals like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Tokay, Pinot Gris, Grechetto and Pinot Noir go, as they were not suited for the warm climate and clay soils of the area. They were replaced with local grapes Barbera, Bonarda and Malvasia (with Bordeaux varieties remaining until 2005, when those too were replaced).
The farming has been organic since the early 1990's; certification came in 2008. Elena Pantaleoni, a dedicated, intelligent and passionate grower, works closely with her enologist Giulio Armani to craft wines expressive of place and grape. Work in the cellar is minimal. Fermentation is entirely with native yeasts; maceration with skins is lengthy; little to no sulfur is used; wines are aged in a range of Slavonian oak botti and used French barriques; reds are not filtered before bottling; and bottle aging is extended. Elena eschews any DOC classifications, choosing the IGT path instead; she feels that the DOC regulations are too broad in terms of permitted varieties, geographical bounds and production techniques, and not conducive to thoughtul, artisanal winegrowing and winemaking, the priority at the La Stoppa estate.- Louis Dressner